You've dug a small, dark, misshapen disc. Your heart's racing. Is it a hammered coin or just a button? And if it's a coin, who made it and when? This moment - staring at a grubby lump of history in your palm - is why we detect. Let's make sure you know what you're looking at.
Hammered coins were produced in Britain from around 600 AD until 1662, when milled coinage took over. That's over a thousand years of hand-struck silver and gold waiting in our fields. Here's how to decode yours.
We know it's tempting. That dark patina obscures the details and you want to see what's underneath. But resist. Aggressive cleaning destroys value and can remove crucial identifying marks. A gentle rinse under water and soft brushing is fine, but save the chemicals and wire brushes for scrap copper.
Before you dive into catalogues, narrow down the era using these simple checks:
In Kent and Sussex, these are the hammered coins that turn up most frequently:
Short Cross Pennies (1180-1247): The workhorses of medieval England. A facing crowned bust on one side, a short cross that doesn't reach the edge on the other. King's name around the edge - usually HENRICVS (Henry II or III). Common finds, but every one's a thrill.
Long Cross Pennies (1247-1279): Similar to short cross, but the cross extends to the coin's edge - introduced to discourage clipping. You'll spot the difference immediately.
Edward I-III Pennies (1279-1377): Cleaner portraits and better-defined legends. Look for EDWARDVS REX ANGLIE or similar. These are incredibly common and a rite of passage for UK detectorists.
Tudor Half Groats and Pennies: Henry VIII coins are recognisable even when worn - that distinctive profile with the flat cap or crown. Elizabeth I issues often survive well with clear portraits.
Once you've narrowed the era, these free resources will pin down your coin:
Take clear photos in good natural light - straight down on both sides. These will help when asking for identification help in forums or our JOMF members' group.
Most hammered coins you'll find aren't museum-quality. Centuries of plough damage and soil action take their toll. Here's how to squeeze information from worn coins:
Some coins defeat even experienced numismatists. Heavily worn or corroded specimens might only be identifiable to a general period. That's fine. A "medieval silver penny, probably Edward I-III" is a perfectly respectable identification.
If you're genuinely stuck, post in the JOMF members' forum with clear photos and your best guess. Our community includes some seriously knowledgeable collectors who enjoy the challenge.
Once identified, consider recording with the Portable Antiquities Scheme. It's voluntary (unless treasure) but helps build our understanding of Britain's past. Your Edward penny might be the missing evidence that confirms a medieval fair site or market.
Many Finds Liaison Officers will confirm or correct your identification too - they've seen thousands of coins and can spot subtleties you might miss.
Coin identification is a skill that improves dramatically with practice. After your first few hammered coins, you'll start recognising types instantly. The confused squinting at your first short cross penny becomes confident identification within seconds.
For deeper learning, consider Spink's "Coins of England and the United Kingdom" - the numismatist's bible. It's expensive new, but older editions are affordable and perfectly adequate for identification purposes.
Every hammered coin you find was last held by someone centuries ago. Learning to identify them properly is how we honour that connection across time.
Happy hunting - and remember, there's always just one more field.
Join JOMF Today →